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Paris Fashion Week

Dior spins 1950s styles into modern looks; YSL shows broad-shouldered glamor; Valli focuses on tweeds; Westwood honors late founder

PARIS — Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri dove into archives from the 1950s for the French fashion house’s fall women’s catwalk show, adding a modern spin to the era’s feminine mainstays. (See the show here: Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 Ready-to-Wear Show – DÉFILÉS PRÊT-À-PORTER – Women’s Fashion Haute Couture)

Models marched down the sparse setting, a hallway in the Musee d’Art Moderne de Paris, wearing jumpsuits, long coats and dresses in tweed fabrics, mostly black or ivory and woven with gold thread.

The show opened with a black, sleeveless jumpsuit cinched at the waist with a gold belt, and worn over a white T-shirt.

Further shaking the fabric from its traditional twin-set role, Mr. Valli worked the material into long overcoats, loose jackets, mini-dresses and a bright, red jumpsuit.

There were also white jeans, the hems chopped off, paired with a glittering floral sequined top in one instance, and a long, collarless tweed coat in another — both worn by male models.

Fancy party dresses were included in the lineup, offered in bright colors — hot pink, red and purple — with neat piles of bows decorating the waist.

Popular with the red carpet set, and known for voluminous, tulle dresses, Mr. Valli broadened his fan base with a collaboration with H&M in 2019.

The label has financial backing from the Pinault family holding Groupe Artemis.

VIVIENNE WESTWOODFashion label Vivienne Westwood paid tribute to its late founder on Saturday, taking to the catwalk in Paris with a collection drawn up by her husband and design partner Andreas Kronthaler. (See the show here: Vivienne Westwood® Official Store

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